Great Ettore Sottsass Sofa

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From Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist 1930s collaborations with Dalí to Yves Saint Laurent’s de stijl dresses in the 1960s, appearance has always rubbed amateur with art and cultural movements. Over the past decade, these worlds have artificial a afterpiece affiliation – with the rise of all-inclusive affluence brand-funded cultural projects like Fondation Louis Vuitton and Fondazione Prada, and artists of note creating abiding installations for appearance flagships. So it’s conceivably no abruptness that the simplest form of tribute – appearance anon aggressive by an artist or artful movement – continues to emerge.

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While art-inspired clothes are not calmly agitated off, accessories are abundant area – and handbags are currently burglary the show. No best aloof awful admired as abiding investments for the wardrobe, the best accoutrements are now miniature art altar in themselves. These adored examples of absolute adroitness and ability are aces of actuality put on a basement and displayed as abundant as actuality carried. Take Gabriela Hearst’s attractive single-colour covering accordion bag ($2,495): its links to surrealism are clear, and, like Schiaparelli’s airship or telephone-dial accoutrements about a century ago, it’s a masterpiece to behold.

Designers are additionally manipulating catchy abstracts like exotic skins and copse to accomplish abrupt beheld effects and art-gallery gravitas. And while awful adorning apparent embellishments such as adornment and beading still have their place, the focus has angry to shape, structure and the art of basic accoutrements – arch to striking pieces akin to carve and structures that borrow from both art and architecture.

The chat Memphis has been agriculture up this division and in keeping with the 1980s homesickness that underlies accepted accouterment collections, abounding backpack designers accept broke into the spirit of the Milan-based, postmodernist Memphis architecture accumulation – which in that decade created aggregate from ceramics to appliance and buildings – and its playful linking of geometric shapes and ablaze colours.

Mansur Gavriel designers Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel have autonomous for authentic geometry in ablaze shades – a sawn‑off amphitheater (from $695) or the whimsical, wave-sided Ocean bag ($695) – to accomplish “clean, absolute forms in admirable covering that, with subtle, comfortable detailing, become anatomic art objects”.

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The absolute geometry of the new Moynat accumulating is additionally archetypal of this movement. The brand’s cubic, loop-handled Mini Vanity block has been abutting by a hatbox-like absolute boom (from £3,460), a absolute pyramid (from £3,460) and brindled deconstructed trunks (from £3,500). The closing – composed of assorted anecdotal cubes that are disconnected together, like a 3D jigsaw puzzle, to actualize a sculptural appearance – assume like abstruse receptacles for band objects, as if they were advised as jewel or watch boxes as abundant as atramentous bags. “The attention assignment appropriate to accomplish these bags, with their copse autogenous structure, is incredible, abnormally as they’re so small,” says Moynat artistic administrator Ramesh Nair. “Every detail is beneath scrutiny, so each stitch or stud has to be perfect.”

The new summer versions, in soft, ablaze colours, were afflicted by Memphis architect Ettore Sottsass’s campaign in India, as able-bodied as the assignment of Charles Eames. Displayed on gallery-style stands so there’s no mistaking their inspiration, they accept an adorable abstruse apparent architecture in accomplished covering applique handwork.

Perrin Paris, the family-run covering accessories company, took afflatus from sculpture-led Memphis-group artisan Peter Shire, alongside the active colours of suntan artefact packaging, to actualize colour-block covering marquetry versions of the Cabriolet clamp (£1,200) and Le Seau bag (£1,295); while Sacai’s Chitose Abe finetuned a absolute check of squares (from £825) in appropriate Memphis shades. Delvaux, meanwhile, has created a punchy, colour-blocked baby accept bag (£2,150), as well as a top-handled Brillant architecture (£5,400) in which the colour aftereffect showcases superb attention marquetry.

There is according complication in the characteristic geometric (and mainly rigid) forms created by Verbreuil, accustomed by Sylvie Véron Hériard-Dubreuil in 2015. This season, her styles – alignment from the signature La Gare (large €23,550), with its arresting slanted block profile, to the two-handled Callihours (from €2,880) and the softer-silhouetted Tranicq (from €990) – arise in both classic and bright, avant-garde shades aggressive by the painters David Hockney and Edouard Vuillard, and in a array of sizes and banknote from dogie through python to alligator.

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Roksanda Ilincic’s accouterment designs draw on art and architectural movements such as Russian constructivism and dadaism, and her contempo adventure into handbags continues the theme. Her minimal, geometric shapes (£575) are some of the best concrete and apparently simple, yet difficult to construct: accomplished covering is hand-stretched about a board mould and stitched so the seams are unobtrusive. “Though this is not a new technique, it’s unusual,” explains Ilincic, who says her aim was to architecture “a around-the-clock object. The accoutrements accept anatomy congenital in amid the covering and the lining to authority their shape, like a man’s tailored jacket.” They are additionally modular so you can add on the little atramentous adaptation in a hardly altered shape.

Louis Vuitton’s new Square bag (£1,360), a futuristic, sculpted cube (carried abeyant at the corner) was teamed with 18th century-inspired jackets on the catwalk – allotment of artisan Nicolas Ghesquière’s account on bond celebrated appearance with new. Fashioned in high-tech, rubber-coated scuba actual and lined with atramentous microfibre, it is accomplished with a covering handle and a metal shoulder-bag chain. Counterbalancing it is the Petite Boîte Chapeau (£2,800), complete application the brand’s acceptable trunk-making address but in a arresting argent Epi covering for a contemporary, display-worthy finish.

Working anon with an artisan generally adds the ambit of individuality that elevates a bag to art article status. Prada’s assignment with feminist cartoonists Trina Robbins and Brigid Elva has resulted in arresting appliquéd, layered accoutrements (£1,720), which are about the artists’ canvas. Meanwhile, Versace has referenced pop art with a 1991 Warhol Marilyn book (about £3,060) and an busy handle composed of clusters of oversized chaplet and baubles that would accomplish anyone stop in their tracks.

Multimedia artisan Bethan Laura Wood’s assignment is as baroque as her claimed appearance and her accord with once-classic Italian cast Valextra for this division is awful original. Entitled Toothpaste, it is based, she says, “on a aggregate of the signature black, hand-lacquered bend of Valextra bags, the Mexico ’68 Olympics logo and the ample assignment of the clear artists at architecture agencyM/MParis”. As an artisan acclimated to bearing one-offs in her studio, the claiming of alive on aggregate production, yet still at an artisanal level, meant attractive to the sculptor and artisan Eduardo Paolozzi, “who explored links amid art and accumulation production”.

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“I adulation Paolozzi’s mixes of pastels and pop shades and I wanted to absorb Valextra’s basal forms with my added acute aesthetic,” she says. Taking the brand’s archetypal Iside and Passepartout styles (both £2,750), she has added bold, curving, geometric stripes with a covering applique address she additionally uses for furniture, and has created amusing assumption and acetate clasps and handles in abstruse forms.

Sophie Hulme’s new collection, The Project, reuses surplus covering for inlaid, geometric, colour-blocked designs (from £440) and includes a appropriate copy accord with the illustrator Rose Blake, babe of Peter Blake: a arcade arena of abstruse canvases, fabricated from a mix of covering offcuts, intarsia and print, that wraps annular the Exchange tote (£1,750).

“Sophie is an old acquaintance and the abstraction acquired organically as a aggregate of my fine-art appearance and her architecture expertise,” says Blake. While borer into their accumulated art and architectural inspirations – Sonia Delaunay, Josef Albers, Donald Judd and Frank Lloyd Wright for Hulme; Hockney, Matisse and Picasso for Blake – they experimented to acquisition new means of accomplishing the best finish, alive in saddle leather, which, Hulme explains, allows actual absolute geometric work. Available in aloof one colourway, it involves abounding altered offcut shades – so back one runs out, assembly will stop.

These accoutrements are advised to be admired – but, as ever, the able art beneficiary will move fast.

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