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The accustomed ancillary dishes are reinterpreted a bit, and new ones accept been added. Creamed spinach, which reminds me of babyish aliment at best steakhouses, has some tooth to it at Band House. The appearance is cautiously chopped and ambrosial with truffles. Vegetables en papillote turns out to be a ample block bag that opens up to acknowledge a affluence of little aflame prizes in a buttery auto vinaigrette: pattypan squash, babyish carrots, babyish corn, bonbon pikestaff beets and lots more. The potato fix comes three ways, depending on your mood: as a borsch of fingerling potatoes, as deep-fried spuds or as a dark-golden arch of potatoes, abrupt afterwards frying in goose fat.

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This agilely caper disposition can be acquainted throughout the menu. Braised short-rib flan, one of the added arresting appetizers, wears the guise of a flan but is absolutely braised meat encased in a bland adhesive of endive, with a anchorage abridgement sauce, broiled garlic cloves and chanterelle mushrooms. Skate meets snail in one of the added surreal comestible encounters of contempo years, fabricated accepted by a sharp, affable auto parsley sauce. The final bit of audacity in this nonsteakhouse is the steak that’s not a steak: a block of tofu masquerading as steak au poivre.

Mr. Brachman, who fabricated the desserts at Mesa Grill for years, tries to access into the fun, with alloyed results. The admirable amber profiterole squats on the bowl like some asperous barbarian summoned from a amber tar pit. Stuffed with two kinds of amber ice cream, covered in hot avoid booze and splashed with raspberry coulis, it’s a ambrosia that asks to be anointed all over the face of a 5-year-old. The amber fondue for two tries a little too adamantine to be cute. It’s a awakening fun ride that invites diners to dip chunks of chocolate-coconut poundcake, strawberries and pineapple in a soup of aqueous chocolate. Squashy spiral-form broiled marshmallows accentuate the message: this is a agrarian and crazy dessert. Whee!

I abundant adopted the bake-apple savarin, accompanied by broiled brioche, an aerial Marsala sabayon and brittle slices of broiled almond. That’s added fun than a quiverful of fondue forks, in my book. There’s not a affair amiss with the raspberry crepes suzette, either, and the caramelized angel acerb with mascarpone ice chrism and amber amoroso adamantine booze is as acceptable as it sounds.

Everything about Band House feels actual active and actual conceptualized. Once you bark aback the layers of acceptation and get a few chuckles out of the decor, what’s left? A nice restaurant with some appealing acceptable food. Manhattan has a lot of those.

Strip House

* [Rating: One Star]

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13 East 12th Street; (212) 328-0000.

ATMOSPHERE: An adapted steakhouse with bordello decor.

SOUND LEVEL: Quiet abundant for conversation.

RECOMMENDED DISHES: Porterhouse steak, lamb three ways, New York strip, vegetables en papillote, goose-fat potatoes, bake-apple savarin, caramelized angel tart.

SERVICE: Friendly and efficient.

WINE LIST: An alluringly all-embracing account of added than 200 wines, with 26 bisected bottles and 13 wines by the glass.

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PRICE RANGE: Dinner, appetizers, $9 to $14; entrees, $22 to $32; desserts, $8.

HOURS: Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 6 to 11 p.m; Friday and Saturday, 6 to 11:30 p.m.

CREDIT CARDS: All above cards.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Restrooms are on artery level.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN:

(None)Poor to satisfactory

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* Good

** Actual good

*** Excellent

**** Extraordinary

Ratings reflect the reviewer’s acknowledgment to food, ambient and service, with amount taken into consideration. Card listings and prices are accountable to change.

Past restaurant reviews from The New York Times, with added abridged reviews by Times critics, are accessible on New York Today: www.nytoday.com

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