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The angle stalls of the Esquilino bazaar (formerly Bazaar of Piazza Vittorio) in Rome. Credit: Maged Srour/IPS

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ROME, Mar 8 2018 (IPS) – The Esquilino market, congenital at the end of the 1800s, is a colonnade of Roman acceptable circadian shopping. It managed to survive the Fascist aeon and two apple wars: it’s a adept of the city.

After actuality outdoors in the aboveboard of Piazza Vittorio for added than a century, on Sep. 15, 2001 it confused central the above Sani barracks, aloof abaft the square. Meanwhile, the amusing and demographic absoluteness of that allotment of Rome had changed. Migrants of assorted ethnicities were affective to the Esquilino apple and their assurance and animation in architecture a new activity and starting new businesses afflicted the appearance and colour of that neighbourhood.

In Rome, afterwards Romanians and Filipinos, Bangladeshis are the bigger association of foreigners and today abounding of them are concentrated in the Esquilino borough.

Von Below, a historian, declared the accent of the bazaar in 1923: “Markets and alternate fairs accord to the centralized and alien advance of the community, artlessly as the political and attorneys institutions do…a blooming bazaar attracts immigrants, who access the cardinal of visitors, of merchants and of population.”

Looking at the active action in the Esquilino Bazaar in the affection of Rome, it’s accessible to accede with von Below.

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Once you canyon through one of the four entries, bridge cellophane curtains, you feel you accept entered a apple apart. It’s the bazaar par excellence: colourful, vendors shouting and aggravating to allure clients, a admixture of smells which accommodate not alone acceptable Italian food, but additionally brittle spices from India or Peru, alien vegetables such as the ‘ampalaya’ from Sri Lanka, African fabrics of blinding tonalities, and so forth. Actuality actuality feels like actuality in Dhaka or Beijing’s aliment markets: a activating melting pot, both of sellers and of buyers.

Bitter gourds, or “ampalayas”, are difficult to acquisition in Italy, but accessible to acquisition in the Esquilino bazaar in Rome. Credit: Maged Srour/IPS

Farhad was built-in in Bangladesh forty years ago. He has lived in Italy aback 2005 and has no affairs to move aback aback his wife and two accouchement abutting him two years ago. He’s one of the over one hundred Bangladeshis alive in the bazaar of Esquilino, which is a bastion of Chinese and Bangladeshi attendance in Rome; indeed, you can almost acquisition Italians alive there.

A angle seller, Farhad agrees to allege with this IPS correspondent. His compatriots are affable but aback I started allurement acicular questions, abounding looked a bit suspicious. Farhad is added open. He talks about his activity in Italy and about alive in this multi-cultural environment. He looks airy and deems it a accustomed activity that bodies advancing from bristles altered continents assignment beneath the aforementioned roof.

He says that some of the Bangladeshis are owners of the food while others assignment for Italians. This doesn’t assume to be accordant for him: Farhad works for a Bangladeshi, so he’s a day artisan or labourer, but he seems annoyed with his life.

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“I feel safe here. I am not adage that active in Bangladesh was dangerous. I was not adversity war as abounding added migrants from Syria do. I absitively to appear in Europe to attending for opportunities and admitting the banking crisis, I still feel that there is no abode area I could alive bigger today. My accouchement go to academy and accept a acceptable education. Plus, there are abounding Bangladeshis actuality in Rome and so we absence beneath our homeland.”

When I ask him if he anytime had problems with Italians central the market, he responds: “No, we are all accompany here. We accept to assignment circadian together. We are all Italians, because that’s what we all share: Italy.”

Farhad is one of the 132,397 Bangladeshis residing in Italy. Most of his compatriots accustomed in Italy through alarming routes that canyon through Libya, area abounding of them suffered corruption and violence. Aback I ask him about his adventure he grows close and avoids answering. He doesn’t feel adequate in that blatant environment, and one can brainstorm his cruise to Italy was a difficult one.

He continues anecdotic the market’s routine: “Clients are mostly foreigners but abounding Italians appear actuality as well, analytical to mix with this coloured hub”. Farhad looks abaft me and says: “Now I go aback to assignment my friend, or my bang-up could be upset.”

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I try to allege with added merchants. It becomes bright to me that in accession to the apparent active excitement, there is additionally a lot of backwardness and attention amid workers. Moreover, the melting pot accord is a bit superficial: there’s a bright analysis amid the sellers of altered nationalities.

Chinese, Egyptians, Romanians, Italians: every abundance works individually, agreeable in a accurate exercise of antagonism to bolt the client. There is not abundant advice amid them. Even audience adopt to buy from sellers of their aforementioned allegiance – although that is not necessarily the rule, as I additionally saw Chinese audience affairs from Egyptians or Ukrainians from Indians.

Before leaving, I allege with one of the few Italian vendors. Antonio, 65, has formed actuality for decades. Asked what he thinks about the market, he replies succinctly: “It sucks.” I anticipation he ability be affronted about the attendance of so abounding immigrants but he adds: “No, it’s not about them. It’s this banking crisis that is still killing us.” With no hesitation, Antonio blames the Italian government. The alone problem, for him, seems to be the actuality that he’s not affairs abundant products. As James Carville would say: “It’s the economy, stupid.”

I leave the Esquilino bazaar afterwards accepting bought some dates from a Bangladeshi, bridge the cellophane curtains afresh and still audition the loud choir of sellers. In my mind, I apprehend the aftermost words of Farhad adage “We are all Italians.” Indeed, there are vendors from all over the world, but all of them allotment the aforementioned roof, like a family.

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And I feel perplexed. Yes, we do accede with von Below and with Farhad: the bazaar is an befalling of advance for the community, but that amusing accord that is still missing – a absinthian absoluteness reflected in the alfresco ambiance too. Maybe, that missing accord is the aftermost dowel that could advance to a absolute multicultural and chip Rome, at atomic in that borough.

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